What Else Could Possibly Go Wrong?
The Union hospital stands tower-high among the green hills of the Sha Tin district in Hong Kong’s New Territories. Jungle winds between luxury condos, car lights wend their way to glittering mansions, the neon of the city shines below us in the velvety dark.
It’s harder to find a bigger contrast to our normal Hong Kong haunt, the grimecore John Woo stage-set of Tsim Sha Tsui, and, as Zac is wheeled through vast glass doors into an air-conditioned whirl of dark woods and heavy drapes, I’m on the verge of forgetting The Union is actually a hospital.
Hell! Even the receptionists look and feel like luxury concierges, pristine, rapid and very Cantonese, quite the contrast to the “computer says no” tones and tired eyes you’d expect in any London hospital.
A dark drape rustles around us, invisibly sealing the area, and Doctor Rama, our escort on the air ambulance that brought us from Mongolia, begins the registration process. It’s after midnight, but The Union is expecting us, and there’s a private room waiting on the eleventh floor.
“Hello,” he says. “Hello,” Zac says. “How are you doing, son?” “Fine,” Zac says.
We’re en route to the lift when Zac’s dad appears. It’s been rising a year since Zac last saw him, in Paris and London, because neither of us got our shit together while he was in Australia and we were in Harbin, and it’s been longer since I last saw him, in Australia, the Christmas before last.
“Hello,” he says.
“Hello,” Zac says.
“How are you doing, son?”
“Fine,” Zac says.
Zac and I are so used to these nomadic encounters, where friends from one place pop up in another place, where we’ll arrange, for example, to meet friends from Singapore in Turkey, or British grandparents in Malaysia, or Dad in Vietnam, or an English cousin in Beijing, that there’s absolutely no weirdness here for us. It’s just…. life.
I wonder what it’s like for S. It seems – no different. His family live scattered across the globe, as well. We are, none of us, geographically fixed.
And, as we head up to the room, Zac’s babbling about computer games, a topic for which his father has considerably more enthusiasm than I, as if no time has passed.
Larger than many HK apartments, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out towards the sea, it’s quite the contrast to our last non-hospital accommodation, a reindeer herder’s tepee which would probably fit into our en-suite bathroom.
Our private room is quite ludicrously luxe. I have, for the record, stayed in better hotels than this, back in the day when bar reviewing could include reviewing the odd luxury hotel, but for Hong Kong this room is gigantic.
Larger than many HK apartments, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out towards the sea, it’s quite the contrast to our last non-hospital accommodation, a reindeer herder’s tepee which would probably fit into our en-suite bathroom (with space left over for the complimentary Kiehl’s).
I goggle at the real wood floor, the enormous desk, the white leather three-piece suite, the remote control on Zac’s bed that enables him to operate everything within the room, the gigantic fridge, the double-drapes, the coffee – yay! — and thank my lucky stars for travel insurance.
God only knows what this is costing our insurers, but I very much doubt I could afford so much as our room at The Union, let alone the tests and surgery.
A series of friendly, hyper-efficient nurses, their pastel uniforms colour-coded in order of seniority, come through and move Zac from his gurney to the new bed, draw blood for pre-surgery tests, administer an ECG, and dress him in a nice new hospital gown.
“There’s nowhere in Mongolia that can do it.” Doctor Wong’s eyebrows shoot skyward. “The clinic we landed up in didn’t even have running water,” I add. Doctor Wong’s eyebrows virtually loop the loop.
Enter Doctor Wong, a neat, Cantonese guy of my kind of age with a clipped British accent, British and Hong Kong medical training, and a discreetly sardonic air of mischief that I associate more with louche barristers, or particularly hard-partying judges, than medical professionals (maybe I should meet more doctors?).
“He’s come from Mongolia, is that right?”
“Yeah,” I say. “They can’t do the surgery there. There’s nowhere in Mongolia that can do it.”
Doctor Wong’s eyebrows shoot skyward.
“The clinic we landed up in didn’t even have running water,” I add.
Doctor Wong’s eyebrows virtually loop the loop.
“Horse-riding, wasn’t it?” he remarks, with a note of disapproval verging on contempt. (I suspect paediatric orthopaedic surgeons see even more horse-riding injuries than SOS Medica, Mongolia.)
“He was wearing a helmet,” I say, defensively.
S, who can’t sleep on flights and is now knackered, and I, who’ve been running on adrenaline for the last five days, and am still in flat, fast calm, agree that I’ll do a McDonald’s run at 5am, and then he can sort out things like SIM cards while I sleep.
S and I slide naturally into co-parenting mode. We go through the X-rays, and the treatment plan, with Doctor Wong, taking it in turns to ask clarifying questions.
How long will the plate stay in?
That depends how fast Zac grows and how fast the bone heals.
When will he need to go on nil-by-mouth?
No food or liquid after 6am. Surgery is scheduled for noon.
Where can we get food? We’re both worried about keeping Zac’s strength up. He’s naturally extremely slender – he gets it from his father — and between the morphine vomiting, one-handed eating and general sleeping through meals, it’s imperative that we get nutrition into him.
The hospital canteen is closed, but there’s a 24 hour McDonald’s we can go to.
S, who can’t sleep on flights and is now knackered, and I, who’ve been running on adrenaline (not to mention nicotine) for the last five days, and am still in flat, fast calm, agree that I’ll do a McDonald’s run at 5am, and then he can sort out things like SIM cards while I sleep.
I notice that Zac seems to have found something really interesting on the ceiling behind his head. “What are you looking at?” I ask. “Oh, nothing,” Zac says. “My eyes just keep turning to the ceiling.”
Doctor Wong leaves, headed, I hope, for bed. I notice that Zac seems to have found something really interesting on the ceiling behind his head.
“What are you looking at?” I ask.
“Oh, nothing,” Zac says. “My eyes just keep turning to the ceiling.”
His neck’s at an odd angle, too, stretched out and back, and to the right, for all the world like he’s craning to look at something really, really fascinating.
S and I look at each other. This isn’t normal. This is, frankly, a bit weird.
“Shall I get Doctor Wong?” I ask.
“I think so, yeah,” says S.
I head to the reception desk and ask for Doctor Wong.
A paediatrician is duly roused, but Zac’s eyes and neck remain resolutely normal. “This sounds like a known reaction to a drug called Stemetil,” the paediatrician says. “Has he had Stemetil?”
It is sod’s law that, by the time Doctor Wong returns from the bed he’s presumably only just hit, Zac’s eyes are behaving normally again.
“I think it’s worth getting the paediatrician out to take a look at him,” says Doctor Wong.
A paediatrician is duly roused, but Zac’s eyes and neck remain resolutely normal.
“This sounds like a known reaction to a drug called Stemetil,” the paediatrician says. “Has he had Stemetil?”
I’m 95% certain it was Stemetil they gave him back in UB, but it’s not in my notes. “They gave him some sort of anti-emetic to counteract the morphine before the flight,” I say. “And I’m pretty sure it was Stemetil. The name sounds familiar. Is it not in the notes that Doctor Rama gave you?”
It isn’t.
Bugger. Anywise, whatever it is, it seems to have stopped. S and I agree that if it happens again we’ll video it on his phone to play to whoever gets here. And back the doctors head to bed.
Zac’s neck is at a really odd angle, now. It looks sort of strained, swollen, pinkish, like something out of The Man with the Golden Arm. And his eyes are trying to roll right back into his head.
It’s long after 1am, and S and I are just debating – in the “No, no, I insist, you first” “No, no, you’re more tired than I am, you have it!” mode — who gets the big bed and who gets the small bed, when Zac sparks up.
“It’s started again!” he says. “I can’t stop it!”
His neck is at a really odd angle, now. It looks sort of strained, swollen, pinkish, like something out of The Man with the Golden Arm.
And his eyes are trying to roll right back into his head.
“Watch my hand,” I say. “Follow my hand. Can you follow my finger?”
I move one finger across his range of vision and, while I can see he’s trying to follow it, his eyes keep rolling back.
The movements of his eyes and head are now outside Zac’s control, although he’s well aware of what is happening. He’s trying to fight it, and it’s frightening him.
“You’re alright, son,” says S. “You’ll be alright.”
We hit the buzzer for the doctor, and I make some lame gags about Mongolian horse disease to try and calm Zac down (Mongolian horses roll their eyes a lot, which is why my jokes were totes hilarious, honest).
He’s muttering, in a ‘how-could-I-not-have-thought-of-this’ interior monologue, things like: “Blunt force trauma! Of course, blunt force trauma. 2cm displacement! Immense force! Immense force trauma!”
Doctor Wong beats the paediatrician to it, takes one look at Zac and goes into, with hindsight, the closest I’d imagine a surgeon gets to panic.
He’s muttering, in a ‘how-could-I-not-have-thought-of-this’ interior monologue, things like: “Blunt force trauma! Of course, blunt force trauma. 2cm displacement! Immense force! Immense force trauma!”
He will tell me, later, that sometimes the only sign of a massive bleed on the brain is something as infinitesimal as a slight lean to one side when you walk.
“I think it’s the Stemetil,” I say. “It’s a known reaction, right? Is there any way we can establish whether he’s had the drug?”
S is by the bed, soothing Zac’s fevered brow, and saying calming things. Zac’s face is turning pinker and pinker, the muscles in his neck straining.
I make more Mongolian horse disease jokes. None of the chaps are remotely impressed.
“He needs an MRI scan,” says Doctor Wong. “I’ve asked for the radiologist to be woken and the paediatrician will meet us there.”
“JUST GET ME THE FUCKING ANTIDOTE ALREADY,” screams Zac, now scarlet, his head tilted at least 45° back from normal, veins popping, tears sprouting from pupil-less white eyes. “I WANT THE FUCKING ANTIDOTE.”
Down we go into the lift, into the bowels of the hospital, a sterile UV-lit enclosure with PET tomography, MRI scanner after MRI scanner, the kind of kit you don’t see on our British NHS.
As Zac’s wheeled into the preparation room, his neck continues to strain, for all the world as if his neck is trying to break his whole head off his body.
I’m still in flat calm, while simultaneously wondering if it’s possible for a reaction like this to actually break Zac’s neck, because it does look like that’s what’s about to happen, as the paediatrician rushes in, so hastily woken his bow-tie’s askew, a shocking matter for any Cantonese professional.
“JUST GET ME THE FUCKING ANTIDOTE ALREADY,” screams Zac, now scarlet, his head tilted a full 45° back from normal, veins popping, tears sprouting from pupil-less white eyes. “I WANT THE FUCKING ANTIDOTE.”
S makes soothing noises.
“I think,” I say to the paediatrician, in flat, fast calm tones. “The antidote is the best first-stage treatment. That will help us to establish if it is a Stemetil reaction, and it will also mean the MRI scan works better if it is indeed the Stemetil. Do you have the antidote in the hospital?”
They do. An orderly is sent to the pharmacy. Zac is now in full-blown panic, screaming for the antidote and turning the air absolutely blue. The second orderly stands there, looking bemused.
“WHERE IS THE FUCKING ANTIDOTE?” Zac yells again, his neck now so arched I’m scared for his spine. “It’s coming,” I say. “It’s on its way.”
The antidote seems to take aeons to come. “WHERE IS THE FUCKING ANTIDOTE?” Zac yells again, his neck now so arched I’m scared for his spine.
“It’s coming,” I say. “It’s on its way. They’ve got it in the pharmacy, so they don’t have to leave the hospital, and someone’s just bringing it for you now.”
The antidote arrives. “Did you flush the cannula?” I ask.
The paediatrician looks at me, unnerved, asks a nurse to flush the cannula, and injects the antidote into Zac’s hand.
“He’s giving you the antidote now,” I say. “How long before it works?”
“Five minutes,” says the paediatrician. “Maybe ten.”
“JUST MAKE IT STOP!!!!!” yells Zac. “JUST MAKE IT FUCKING STOP NOW!!!”
S does calm in a crisis much better than I do, because he does genuinely-calm calm, rather than fast, flat, scary, brittle really-not-calm-at-all calm.
Within possibly 60 seconds, the straining’s eased, the eyes are rolling back into place, and Zac’s subsiding to the peaceful, zonked-out calm I now associate with megadoses of IV sedatives.
S, the paediatrician and I all look at each other, faces mirroring exhaustion.
“It’s a known reaction,” says the paediatrician, calmly. “It looks as though he’s allergic to Stemetil.”
“I’m sorry,” I say to S, thinking how glad I am that Zac went into what medics apparently term an oculogyric crisis in a hospital with a well-equipped pharmacy rather than on an air ambulance en route to Hong Kong with a mandatory stop for refuelling in a Chinese city for which we had no visas. “It hasn’t been quite this dramatic all the way. It’s actually been pretty plain sailing.”
S does calm in a crisis much better than I do, because he does genuinely-calm calm, rather than fast, flat, scary, brittle really-not-calm-at-all calm (and, I suspect, for that matter, may actually remain genuinely calm – like I said, he’s from Brisbane, and I’m neurotic). But I’m still incredibly impressed that he’s stayed so, well, calm throughout.
“Do I get to see the pictures of my brain from the MRI scan?” asks Zac, quite remarkably recovered.
He does! I leave S to handle the MRI scan, and head upstairs in search of coffee and a cigarette, both sorely, sorely needed. I figure he can handle anything else that comes up.
Because, lord knows, after this, nothing more can possibly go wrong. Right? I mean, seriously. What else could POSSIBLY go wrong?
this sounds awful, it’s not possible I could stay calm in such circumstance. I hope Zac recovers quickly!
You’d be amazed, Colleen, you’d be amazed how calm you can stay when you have to… Seriously. But it’s not proper calm. It’s a weird, flat, functional calm, at least for me.
I love the photo. It’s just so sci-fi.
That whole area of the hospital was completely futuristic. I’d never seen anything like it. Strange, glowing boxes, banks of computers, ultra-high-tech medical gear that looked like something from an Iain M. Banks late stage civilisation. At the time, however, I wasn’t really in photo taking mode, though I did grab that one because Zac was so interested in the MRI…
This is great.
And that photo – the first thing I thought was “movie set”, and “child actor”.
Love it.
I know! The whole thing was just so sci-fi — that’s an unedited image, no colour lifting, just a crop.
The fact is, with adventures like this, Zac is going to grow up as the one of the coolest kids on the planet. Which, I guess makes you one of the best mothers on the planet.
IF YOU ARE READING THIS ZAC : STAY AWAY FROM DRUGS.
Zac’s far too cool to even read his own comments, let alone mine. But I’ll remind him about drugs, thank you 😉
I love the way how Zac overrides all the adults amd physicians by demanding the antidote, now, before the MRI. That is exactly how my son would have been, both now at 30 and when he was Zacs age too. I would have been completely pissing myself, prostrate and in a state of complete hysteria on the inside, while calm, in control and carrying out my sons demands on the outside. My son had a big operation when he was 4 which may have taken me to where you were with Zac. But the worst thing that happened was when he was 15 and his mates called me into his room because Liam was unconscious due an overdose of alcohol. I became hysterical and yelled for someone to call an ambulance whereupon Liam slightly raised his head and told me to place him into recovery position and sit with him until he was conscious again. FARK!!!
God, I have ALL of this to look forward to… And, yes, that’s exactly the sort of thing I can envisage Zac doing, in a no-drama voice. He was super-lucid, I’ll say that for him, which was a huge relief. I was less terrified than you’d expect, to be honest: for me the worst moment was the fall itself, and everything after that was just medium-horrific.
It’s absolutely astounding how timing worked that he had that allergic reaction in Hong Kong. One day you’re hanging out with reindeer, and the next you’re in the urban jungle on the other side of the continent. It’s enough to give the reader virtual whiplash; I can only imagine what that’s done to Zac, mum, and dad.
We deal with the whiplash OK, actually — but, yes, our lives tend to be packed with contrasts of different kinds….
Living in Laos with our 10 year old daughter, every medical emergency/issue is such a worry. We just went pretty deep into the bush to stay in this amazing jungle valley in treehouses next to a giant waterfall. The only way in is by zipline and out by scaling a 75 meter cliff, we couldn’t help Amelie with this, she needed to do it all on her own if we wanted to leave. Once we were there I started to realize the risk we were taking. There were cats in the camp and Amelie is terribly allergic to cats, which we didn’t expect. Only way in and out of the treehouse is by zipline which the guides usualy assisted us with in the morning and evening, but what do we do in the middle of the night if we had an issue. I fell through a rotting plank at deadly heights, but didn’t fall to the ground, we had numerous mechanical and “guide error issues with faulty equipment etc…we were given sticks to use to slow ourselves down on ziplines that in some cases went on for 400 meters…no good medical care in Laos much less our jungle camp. After it was done it was a journey we will remember the rest of our lives, all went well, but I couldn’t help but think the whole time about the risks which was extremely stressful. When my wife and kid were having great fun I was just constantly on full alert…I still question wether the amazing things we do our worth the risk…what are your thoughts? Would you do it all again?
I’d do the horse riding thing all over again, but I’d have him in proper riding boots as well as the helmet: we couldn’t have done anything about the saddle slipping (that was an error on the horsemen’s side, not ours, as they were looking after the girth), but I could and should have ensured he was wearing better shoes so that he couldn’t be dragged.
We did a Wilderness First Aid course back in the UK — which I’ll get to soon, I hope, but the website’s here if you want to check it out http://www.highpeakfirstaid.co.uk/ — which has vastly improved my confidence, and, especially given your daughter has serious allergies, I’d recommend you check into something like that. They do 40 hour courses for expedition leaders, which sounds about the right level given the limited medical care they have in Laos.
This is the Gibbon Experience, right? I thought about doing that, but never got around to it in Laos (although, lord, just hiking in Nam Ha you’re going over some ropy, ropy bridges, and I’m scared of heights). My attitude to risk has changed, in all honesty. I used to be so blase about wearing seatbelts, and then we had a car smash in Egypt and I took out a window with my head. Now I’m a lot less blase than I was…
This was the Tree Top Explorer At Jungle Hotel Paksong in the The Dong Hua Sao mountain range – Bolaven Plateau. I think Gibbon is closer to Vientiane and a bit more family friendly. The Paksong one is probably more amazing but they say age 8-88 on the website which is rubbish, it is very physically demanding and the guides are great but make many amateur mistakes/don’t have the proper equipment etc. Saying that I would encourage any savvy traveler to go, but go prepared and with caution, it is not just another tour that everyone would enjoy/handle. We brought our own medkit, I had a wrench on my pocket knife used to fix some faulty equipment that the guides didn’t have etc. If you don’t like heights you would definitely need to deal with it on this trip lol, even the tree houses are 10 meters up but the zip-lines are over some crazy waterfall filled gorges…my daughter was the most sick though in Bangkok with food poisoning and the hospital was flash like the one you describe in Hong Kong…much nicer than one’s we have been to in AU, NZ or USA..so you don’t have to be in the bush to have bad things happen…thanks for the website I will have a look…have you seen the book – “Where There Is No Doctor”? …http://hesperian.org/books-and-resources/
I’ve not seen it, no. But I should take a look at it.
God – fixing their equipment with a pocket knife. Reminds me of cave tubing in Vang Vieng. They’d “waterproofed” a car battery, wired it to a headtorch, and so I was tubing an underground river — with down currents into the caves below — with a kilo of lethal electricity weighting me down.
I think I would have been in full blown panic attack mode if one of my girl would have had that kind of freaking reaction!
I think, in the grand scheme of things, by that point I was just rolling with the punches. I’d have been absolutely squeaking with hysteria if it had come earlier on in the saga, but, by then, I was just: “Here we go again…”
Fascinating insights, Theodora. With all the descriptions, somehow “The hospital canteen is closed, but there’s a 24 hour McDonald’s we can go to.” really hit the spot. Hope Zac recovers well and soon!
Thank you! He’s actually well recovered by now. I’m a LONG way behind on my life in my narrative, but this is the kind of story that I do just want to tell…
Wow, what an ordeal. Poor Zac. I hope he’s feeling better now. I love the vision of the paediatrician with his bow-tie askew! Love to both
He’s much better, dearest Nick. I’m way behind on my life, because I started telling this story in enormously long episodes, and now I have to continue it, but he’s right as rain now. I do hope to see you and James soon… Hugs to both of you xxxx
That was soooo scary. What would have happened if Zac had that reaction in Mongolia? Yikes!
I think the guys at SOS Medica would have handled it. If he’d had it in the rural clinic, god only knows what would have happened…
I am very glad you are fine now. Best regards!
Thank you, Rosa…